Tea in the Nilgiris: What You Need to Know

8 minutes Reading time.

by | Apr 7, 2025

The Nilgiri region is in the mountains of southern India. Its hills and special weather make it a great place to grow tea.1 For over a hundred years, tea has been a big part of life in the Nilgiris, changing its land, money, and culture.1

This article will tell you about the history of tea in the Nilgiris, including where it came from, how it changed over time, the different kinds of tea grown, how it’s farmed and made, why it’s important to the culture, its effect on the economy and environment, important people and events, what makes it special, and the problems and chances for the future of the tea business there.

How Tea Started in the Blue Mountains

The story of tea in the Nilgiris started when the British ruled India. They wanted to grow tea in India because they couldn’t get enough from China.1 In 1835, the first tea seeds from China were planted in the Nilgiri Mountains.1

A scientist named George Samuel Perrottet planted these seeds in a garden in Ketti.1 Even though they weren’t taken care of very well, these first plants lived and were grown more.1

These were just experiments at first. An early farm started in Ketti in 1835 didn’t do well and closed in 1836.14 This shows that it was hard to start growing a new plant in a place it wasn’t from.

The British used the sinensis type of tea from China, not the assamica type that grows in Assam. This probably made Nilgiri tea different from the start because these two types of tea need different conditions and taste different.5

From Trying to Growing Big

Tea started to become a real business in the Nilgiris in the late 1800s. The Thiashola estate, started in 1859, was one of the first tea farms there. They started selling tea around 1862.1 At first, retired British soldiers and government workers ran these farms. They used local people for work, but many of them didn’t know much about growing tea.1

The British realized this was a problem, so they brought in experienced tea makers from China to teach people how to grow and make tea.1 This helped a lot in setting up good ways to farm and process tea. To help their businesses, the European farmers, who grew both coffee and tea, started the Nilgiri Planters’ Association.

Later, in 1894, it became part of a bigger group called the United Planters Association of South India (UPASI).1 A big step for the tea business was when Robert Stanes started the United Nilgiri Tea Estates Company in 1922. It became one of the biggest tea companies in the area.1

After India became independent in 1947, Indian people slowly started to own the tea gardens instead of the British. In 1953, the government made a law called the Tea Act to control the tea business.1

A place to buy and sell tea was started in Coonoor in 1963.1 From the 1970s to the 1990s, countries like Russia bought most of the tea from Nilgiris, about 80% of it.1

Because of this, the way tea was made changed to produce more of a type called CTC and instant tea, which the Russians wanted because it was cheaper.

In the 1970s, more tea was also grown because of an agreement with Sri Lanka that brought many Indian Tamil people to the region. The government started a company called the Tamil Nadu Tea Plantation Corporation to help them find homes and jobs.1

Many Tastes: Types of Nilgiri Tea

The Nilgiris are known for making many different kinds of tea, but black tea is the most common.1 A lot of the black tea made in Nilgiris is made using the CTC method. This means the tea leaves are cut, torn, and curled into small pieces that are often used in tea bags.1

However, since the year 2000, more people have started making Orthodox tea, where the leaves are rolled and stay whole or broken. People in other countries often like this type of tea because it has more complex flavors.1

Besides black tea, some tea farms in the Nilgiris also grow green tea, white tea, and oolong tea.1 A very special tea from the Nilgiris is “frost tea.” It’s picked in the cold months between January and March. These leaves are picked after a light frost and have a special sweet flavor.1

Some tea makers are also focusing on making special, high-quality teas like Silver Tips, Hand Made Green Tea, Bai Mudan Tea, and Hand Made Black Tea. These teas are made very carefully using only the best young leaves.31 The region also makes flavored teas like Masala Tea, Lemon Tea, English Breakfast Tea, Cardamom Tea, Chocolate Tea, and Ginger Tea to suit different tastes.8

This variety of teas shows that the tea business is changing to meet what people want and is trying to sell more expensive, special teas. The “frost tea” is a good example of how the Nilgiris’ weather can create unique teas that some people really like.

How Tea is Grown and Made

In the Nilgiris, tea is mostly grown from the Camellia sinensis var. sinensis plant. This type of tea grows well in the high mountains where the land slopes, there are two rainy seasons, and the weather changes between fog and sunshine.1 Tea in the Nilgiris is grown on big company farms, small family farms, and also by the government-run Tamil Nadu Tea Plantation Corporation.1

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One special thing about growing tea here is that the leaves are picked almost all year round, usually about every ten days.1 The way tea leaves are processed in the Nilgiris can be either traditional or modern.

The traditional way, called Orthodox, has several steps: skilled workers pick the young tea leaves by hand; then, the leaves are spread out to dry and lose some water; rolling the leaves, often by hand for the best teas, releases oils that give flavor; the rolled leaves are then left to change color (fermentation) to develop their taste; finally, the leaves are dried to keep the flavor, and then sorted by quality.3

The CTC method is more modern and uses machines to cut, tear, and curl the leaves into small pieces, which are mostly used for tea bags.1 In the Nilgiris, there are many factories that are owned by individuals or groups of people. These “bought leaf factories” buy fresh tea leaves from the many small tea farmers in the area.1

These factories are very important for processing the tea from the small farms. Across the Nilgiris, tea factories are using both old and new ways to make better quality tea more efficiently.3

The fact that there are both big farms with their own factories and many small farms that sell to other factories shows the different kinds of businesses involved in the Nilgiri tea industry. This affects the quality, price, and how tea is sold in the region.

The change from mostly making Orthodox tea to making CTC tea because of what Russia wanted, and now a return to focusing on Orthodox and special teas, shows that the tea business can change with what people around the world want.

Tea as Part of the Culture

Tea is very important in Indian culture, and the Nilgiris, as a major tea-growing area, are no different.8 People all over India enjoy Nilgiri tea, and it’s become a part of India’s tea culture.8 When the British ruled India, tea farms were often places where the British farmers and their families socialized.10

Even today, drinking tea is a daily habit for many families in India.9 The tea business in the Nilgiris has a big effect on the local people, giving many jobs in growing, making, and selling tea, which helps them earn a living.1 Nilgiri tea is also seen as a symbol of the region’s history.9

One interesting cultural point is how the tea business helped people who were sent back to India from Sri Lanka in the 1970s. Growing tea became their main way to live and become part of the community.1 Also, the Badaga community, a large local group, plays a big role in small tea farming in the Nilgiris.1

The many jobs created by the tea business show how important it is for the well-being of many communities in the Nilgiris. The creation of the Tamil Nadu Tea Plantation Corporation to help the Tamil people from Sri Lanka shows that the tea business has a wider impact on society than just making money.

How Tea Helps the Economy

The tea business is a major part of the economy in the Nilgiri region. It brings in a lot of money and helps the local and national economies through sales and exports.8 In 2020, it’s estimated that Nilgiri tea made around 50million.[8]India′stotalteaexportsin2021−2022wereabout201millionkilograms,worthUS 718 million.8

The Nilgiri tea business employs many people, including farmers, workers on the farms, and people who process and sell the tea.1 Small tea farmers are a big part of the tea production in the Nilgiris, with about 60,000 small farmers owning about 60% of the tea land.37

These small farmers often sell their fresh tea leaves to “bought leaf factories” to be processed.1 This is different from the big company farms and government-owned farms like the Tamil Nadu Tea Plantation Corporation.1

Tea auctions in Coonoor, Coimbatore, and Kochi are important places for buying and selling processed tea.1 The tea business also helps other businesses like packaging, transportation, and tourism, as people like to visit the beautiful tea farms.30

The large number of small tea farmers shows that the money from the tea business is spread among many people in the local communities.

The history of relying on exports, especially to Russia, and then needing to sell to other countries, shows that the tea business is affected by changes in the world economy.

Taking Care of the Environment and Problems

While the tea business has been good for the economy in the Nilgiris, the growth of tea farming has also caused environmental problems. Large tea farms have been blamed for using up nutrients in the soil and reducing the variety of plants and animals.32

Many forests and grasslands have been cut down to make way for tea farms.32 This has led to more problems with wild animals like elephants and gaur.32

There are also worries about using too many pesticides in tea farming.32 Also, the land has become damaged, and climate change has made the region more likely to have landslides and floods.32

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Climate change has also affected the tea harvest, with reports of dry weather and very hot temperatures hurting production.32 Because of these environmental problems, people are trying to fix the damage by removing tea trees in some areas and planting local plants.32

There’s also a growing focus on using farming methods that are better for the environment, like organic farming and agroforestry.6 Groups like the Rainforest Alliance are working with tea farms to encourage environmentally friendly practices.51

The reported damage to the environment is a big threat to growing tea in the future and to the health of the Nilgiris’ nature. The increasing effort to restore the environment and use sustainable practices shows that people are becoming more aware of these problems and want to do something about them.

Important People and Moments

Several important people and events have shaped the history of tea in the Nilgiris. John Sullivan, who was in charge of the Coimbatore area, saw the potential of the Nilgiris and helped with the early experiments in growing tea.5 George Samuel Perrottet’s first planting of tea seeds in 1835 was the start of tea in the region.1

Robert Stanes starting the United Nilgiri Tea Estates Company in 1922 was a key moment in the growth of the tea business.1 Dr. Christie’s early interest in growing tea in the Nilgiris also helped in the beginning.11

The creation of the Tea Board of India in 1953 provided important rules for the tea business.1 A significant recognition of the region’s special tea was when it received a Geographical Indication (GI) status in 2008.1

The Nilgiri Planters’ Association (UPASI) has also been important in supporting the interests of tea farmers and the tea business.1

The early ideas and work of people like John Sullivan and George Samuel Perrottet were very important in starting the Nilgiri tea industry.

Getting the Geographical Indication status gives legal protection and recognition to the unique qualities and origin of Nilgiri tea.

What Makes Nilgiri Tea Special

Nilgiri tea has several unique qualities, mostly because of the region’s special environment. It’s often described as lively, fragrant, and full of flavor.1 The tea is known for its smell and taste, often having hints of fruit and flowers, like citrus, dusk orchid, and woody plums.1

Compared to other black teas, Nilgiri tea is usually lighter and not as bitter.3 When you brew it, it often has a bright amber color.3 One good thing about Nilgiri tea is that it’s great for making iced tea because it stays clear even when it’s cold.1

Its light but fragrant taste makes it good for mixing with other teas, including in masala chai.1 Orthodox Nilgiri teas are often compared to teas from Ceylon (now Sri Lanka) because both places have similar weather, including two rainy seasons.1

The special combination of weather, height above sea level, and soil in the Nilgiris makes its tea taste unique.1 The consistent description of Nilgiri tea as lively and having fruity-floral notes shows its special flavor, which is different from other Indian teas. Its ability to make good iced tea gives it an advantage in the market.

Today and the Future

The Nilgiri tea business today has both problems and opportunities. Money issues, like low prices and not much profit, are still a worry for many farmers.29 Labor issues, like making sure workers get fair pay and good working conditions, are still important.8

Environmental problems, especially those related to climate change, damaged soil, and loss of plant and animal life, are big threats to growing tea in the region in the long run.32

However, there are also new chances for the Nilgiri tea business. Focusing on making better quality Orthodox and special teas could lead to better prices.1 More people wanting to buy organic and sustainably grown teas is another big chance for the region’s tea farmers.6

Adding value by improving how tea is processed and using good marketing can also help the Nilgiri tea business make more money.22 The existing system of small farmers and “bought leaf” factories is unique and can be used to produce both good quality and large amounts of tea.1

Efforts to sell Nilgiri tea in India and other countries are important for it to reach its full potential.1 Right now, it’s important to find ways to solve the current problems and take advantage of the new opportunities to make sure the Nilgiri tea business is successful and sustainable in the future.

Focusing on quality and sustainability fits with what the market wants and can lead to better financial returns.

Conclusion

The history of tea in the Nilgiris is a mix of British influence, people starting businesses, cultural connections, and environmental concerns. Since the British first brought tea here in the 1800s, the tea business has grown to be a key part of the Nilgiri economy and culture.

The region makes many kinds of tea, each with its own special taste because of the Blue Mountains’ unique environment. While the business has faced and continues to face problems, especially with the environment and making enough money for small farmers, there are also good chances for growth by focusing on quality, organic methods, and specific markets.

Tea has a long history in the Nilgiris, and its future will likely depend on how well the industry can deal with today’s challenges while using sustainable and new ways to meet the needs of the world market.

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Table 1: Important Dates in Nilgiri Tea History

YearEvent/DevelopmentSignificance
1835First planting of Camellia sinensis var. sinensis seeds in the NilgirisMarks the start of tea growing in the region 1
1859Establishment of Thiashola estateOne of the first tea farms to sell tea in the Nilgiris 1
1862Start of selling tea commerciallyThe Nilgiris began as a tea-producing region 1
1894Nilgiri Planters’ Association joins UPASIOfficially represents the interests of tea farmers 1
1922Robert Stanes starts United Nilgiri Tea Estates CompanyCreates a major company in the Nilgiri tea business 1
1947India becomes independentLeads to Indian people gradually owning the tea gardens instead of the British 1
1953Tea Act establishedPuts the tea business under the control of the Tea Board of India 1
1963Tea auction starts in CoonoorProvides a key place to trade Nilgiri tea 1
1970s-1990sRussia and other Soviet countries become main buyersCauses a shift to making more CTC and instant tea 1
1970sAgreement with Sri Lanka leads to more tea productionBrings many Indian Tamil people to the region for work 1
2008Nilgiri tea gets Geographical Indication (GI) statusRecognizes the unique origin and quality of Nilgiri tea 1

Table 2: Types of Nilgiri Tea and What They Are Like

Type of TeaKey Characteristics
Black Tea (CTC)Strong flavor, dark color, bold, full-bodied, often used in tea bags 1
Black Tea (Orthodox)More complex flavors, often fruity and floral, whole or broken leaves, liked in Western countries 1
Green TeaMilder flavor than black tea, has more antioxidants 1
White TeaMade carefully, not processed much, smooth and light flavor, sweet taste, lots of antioxidants 1
Oolong TeaPartly fermented, smooth flavor and smell, fruity with hints of dried apricots and caramel 1
Frost TeaPicked Jan-Mar after a light frost, rosy and sweet flavor 1
Specialty/FlavoredIncludes Silver Tips, Hand Made Green/Black/Bai Mudan Tea, Masala Tea, Lemon Tea, English Breakfast Tea, Cardamom Tea, Chocolate Tea, Ginger Tea, etc. 8

Table 3: How Tea Impacts the Economy in the Nilgiris (Examples)

YearEstimated Money from Nilgiri Tea (USD Million)India’s Total Tea Export Value (USD Million)Estimated Jobs in Nilgiri Tea Industry
202050N/AMany
2021-2022N/A718Over 2 Million (Total for India)
ApproximateN/AN/A600,000 (Direct & Indirect in Nilgiris)
Source8840

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For me, tea is more than just a drink. It is a way to preserve cultural heritage, strengthen cohesion, and a cornerstone in maintaining a healthy lifestyle, as well as providing an unparalleled taste experience.
CATEGORY: History Of Tea
PUBLISHED: April 7, 2025

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